The Darkroom Workshop

A LITTLE SELECTIVE BLEACHING

Selective bleaching is a technique that uses a very dilute solution of Potassium Ferricyanide, which is brushed on specific areas of a print to lighten the tone and increase contrast.  It must be done very judiciously and anyone practicing this technique must be prepared to ruin a few prints.  But, with a little patience and practice, bleaching is a powerful tool in the darkroom.  Selective bleaching can open up an entirely new avenue of expression.  Here is an example from a recent printing session.

First, here is the subject;  a blind cave between two large sandstone fins in Arches National Park.

 

Selective Bleaching

Next, the printing session;  the negative printed quite easily, without any manipulation.  It is quite interesting, but lacked depth and was somewhat depressed, especially at the bottom.  Also the wood and cracked mud needed to be lighter to draw the eye and enhance the feeling of depth.  Here is a side by side comparison of two prints, one before,  the other after selective bleaching. . . (this is a quick snapshot of the wet prints on the viewing stand before toning)

Selective Bleaching

Finally, the finished print;  we selenium tone every print we make, not only for permanence, but for the slight tonal shift and deepening of the contrast of the image.   Here is the finished dry print.  Note the change in color and contrast after selenium toning.

Selective Bleaching

I will not get into the technique employed, since selective bleaching is deceptively simple and is beyond the scope of this short article to adequately explain.  As I said before, be prepared to ruin a few prints.  This is another tool you can add to your arsenal of darkroom techniques. . . remember, it is always about the finished print.

JB


 

Posted by JB Harlin in Darkroom, How-To, Photography, The Darkroom Workshop

MIXING YOUR OWN

MIXING YOUR OWNI have always been an advocate of vertical integration. The more you can do yourself, the better control you have of the outcome. For many years I used prepackaged photo chemicals and have never had a problem. But, as the traditional darkroom and the materials used become more and more an alternative process, commercially available photo chemicals are getting harder to find. Some favorite chemicals have vanished. An old favorite, the Zone VI line of print developer, fixer and hypo are now gone from Calumet. I recently witnessed 8 bags of print developer and 2 bags of print and film fixer selling for $127.50 on eBay. That is well over double the original cost from Calumet.

The bottom line is, you can mix your own photo chemicals. Sometimes, if you purchase bulk raw chemicals, you can even save a few dollars. Another plus to mixing your own is the fact that you have 100% control. If something goes wrong, you know who to blame. You can also modify the formula and experiment. Mixing your own photo solutions is not hard. It is not rocket science and you do not have to be a chemist. If you can follow a recipe and bake a cake, you can mix your own chemistry for the B&W darkroom.MIXING YOUR OWN

The first thing you need to understand is that in order to mix your own photo chemistry you will be handling CHEMICALS. If you are not comfortable with this thought, do not even go there. But, remember that you are surrounded with chemicals. . . the entire planet is made of them. If you take proper precautions and are careful, there is nothing to fear. I am not a chemist, so I have little understanding of deep details and I have even less inclination to study chemistry. Do as I do, assume that everything you handle in the way of raw chemicals are toxic. Do all mixing in a well-ventilated area. Clean up spills immediately. Avoid breathing airborne powders. Always wear gloves and purchase a respirator with proper filter. A little common sense goes a long way.

MIXING YOUR OWNAs I said before, for me, mixing photo chemicals is nothing less than following a recipe.

When mixing any photo chemistry formula/recipe you need to accurately measure all of the various chemicals. Most formulas call for dry chemicals measured in grams and liquids in milliliters. I have two scales for dry measure. I have a very accurate digital scale for small quantities and an old-fashion triple beam for larger amounts. I picked up a box of small serving containers at the local big box store to be used as disposable containers for measuring small amounts of dry chemicals. I also have larger 8oz plastic cups for larger amounts. Be sure to use the tare function to zero the scale with the empty container before measuring. Zero the scale with every new container, they do not all weigh the same. Once used, I toss them in the trash. I never reuse one of these plastic containers. This assures there is no chance of unwanted contamination.MIXING YOUR OWN

For liquids, I use an appropriate size graduate, and for small quantities, a pipette is the easiest way to make accurate measurements. You can use a pipette pump to make loading and measuring easier, or just dip the pipette into the container and hold your thumb over the end. Remember to always thoroughly wash the pipette after use and always use a clean pipette when going from one chemical container to the next. If the pipette is not properly cleaned, you will cross contaminate your chemicals.

Always follow the chemical formula. Most all formulas are mixed in water and there should be a temperature specified to insure the chemicals dissolve. Always mix in the exact order as called for in the formula. Add each ingredient slowly and continually stir until each is completely dissolved before adding the next. This is where a magnetic stirrer comes in handy. Take your time. Do not rush the process. Some chemicals take some time to completely dissolve.

MIXING YOUR OWNI use distilled water for all stock solutions. I always use distilled water for stock solutions and processing film. Unless your tap water has known problems, it should be fine for mixing printing chemicals.

Once properly mixed, store each formula in a clean bottle with a plastic cap. Never use metal caps, some chemicals will cause them to rust and contaminate the solution. Brown glass is best for developers and plastic should be fine for most others. Be sure to label each container as to its contents and also include the date mixed. Most all stock chemicals are good for three months, some much longer.

There are many published formulas. Some popular commercial formulas are proprietary, but in many cases there are alternative, similar formulas that are published. By applying a little experimentation, you can tailor your photo mixtures to suit you. Search the Internet for formulas and pick up a copy of “The Darkroom Cookbook” Third Edition by Steve Anchell.

Mixing your own is not that difficult. With a little study, careful handling, forethought and experimentation you can mix your own photo chemistry.

Here is a list of things you will need or may want to have;

• disposable gloves
• respirator
• apron
• a selection of required chemicals
• accurate scales
• disposable plastic cups for weighing chemicals
• several sizes of graduates for liquids
• stirring rod
• magnetic stirrer
• pipette
• pipette pump
• glass storage bottles
• plastic storage bottles

Resources:

Bostic & Sullivan
http://www.bostick-sullivan.com

Artcraft Chemicals Inc.
http://www.artcraftchemicals.com

The Darkroom Cookbook Third Edition by Steve Anchell
http://www.steveanchell.com

Pyrocat HD a semi-compensating, high-definition developer, formulated by Sandy King.
http://www.pyrocat-hd.com

The Book Of Pyro by Gordon Hutchings

JB

jbhphoto E-Books

Posted by JB Harlin in Darkroom, DIY, Film, Formulas, How-To, Photography, The Darkroom Workshop

PRINTING NOTES & CATALOG

PRINTING NOTES & CATALOGIn the last entry I talked about making film notes in the field. That is the first step in the process of record keeping. I didn’t mention the last step which is negative storage. Each negative is marked on one edge with a unique number, then inserted into a clear sleeve then into an archival envelope. Each envelope has the negative number written on the upper edge. The envelopes are then placed into archival boxes, which are labeled with the contents. Also, the smaller film is proofed on our standard paper. These proof sheets are punched, and filed in binders. That pretty much sums up the negative end of the process.

The next step is printing, and yes, we keep notes on the printing process. As each print is worked out in the darkroom, we have printed sheets that PRINTING NOTES & CATALOGwe use to record the process. We make our own print planner sheets using the computer to document every step in the darkroom. Our print planner sheets have spaces to record all pertinent information for the creation of a finished print. It includes the negative number and date, along with the print date, printing paper, developer, enlarger settings and such. The print planner sheet also has a series of boxes to record exposure manipulations. . . burning and dodging. That way if we ever need to go back and reprint, we have a record of exactly how we made the first prints. These sheets are filed in a three ring binder and labeled for future reference if needed.

PRINTING NOTES & CATALOGWe also keep a computer database which contains our catalog of available photographs. This database contains all of the information from the film and printing notes. The master catalog database also contains information on the number of prints available, price, and exhibition information.

I am sure this all sounds extremely complicated, and I have to admit that if you ever get behind on the record keeping, it would be near impossible to ever catch up. The secret is to continually and consistently keep the records up to date. When we are on the road, the first order of business in the evening, after dinner, is to update the day’s notes and log. Once we get home, the next order of business is to get the film notes done. This has to be done in order to sort the film before development. Our catalog database allows us to keep track of what we have in the way of photographs and serves as a place to search for information when needed.

If you continually keep up with your film notes and records you will always have a way to see where you have been and maybe an aid to where you go next. Is it worth it? We would not do it if we thought otherwise!

JB

Posted by JB Harlin in Commentary, Film, How-To, Photography, The Darkroom Workshop

WHO USES PYRO?

We have been using Pyro based film developers for some time now. So, what is it about a Pyro negative that makes it so desirable? I have yet to completely understand the desirability of the Pyro negative, but I do know there is a depth that just isn’t there with other more popular film developers.

We used Kodak HC110 for years. We even had our own dilution, that we used based on years of experience with the developer. But once persuaded to try Pyro, the HC110 negatives soon became undesirable. I guess the question is, if you have tried one of the Pyro formulas, did anyone else find that little something extra? Or is it just the mystique of using one of the oldest known developers? There has to be something. I can see it in the negative and the print.

I have been doing a series of detailed tests comparing several of the modern Pyro film developer formulas trying to pick the one that best suits what we do. One thing that is odd is to see all of the different colors of image stain, ranging from near neutral gray to bright green. I have about reached a conclusion as to which formula best suits what we do. . . and. . . I may just write about what I found at a later date. . .

JB

Posted by JB Harlin in Darkroom, Film, Photography, The Darkroom Workshop

DON’T GET TOO HUNG UP ON TESTING

SCALEWe have been on a quest for that little something extra in the photographic print. There are great prints, then there are prints that have that magical something. Printing comprises a great deal of the quality of the finished print, but you have to have the information on the negative before you can make the print. We have used Pyro film developers for some time now, and every time we find a new formula we do a little film testing and then eagerly head to the field to see what we have.
We have had great luck with several of the modern Pyro developers, but it has become confusing as to exactly what each formula did that made us change. So we have embarked on an all-inclusive, side-by-side, test of our favorite four Pyro developers.

This has turned into a little more of a project than originally anticipated. We had to design and build a film sensitometer. Then we had to gather data, plot curves and evaluate them. Then it was off to field testing. No laboratory test will tell you what the real world result will be. But knowledge is power and squeezing every little bit out of your film is what makes great images. You have to push the limits and find the boundaries.

This has been quite an experience, all in all, and I would not suggest anyone go to such lengths unless you are really curious. The bottom line is, don’t get too hung up on testing. You can waste a lot of time testing. Sometimes you are better off just getting out and making photos. Make the mistakes in the real world, find the answer, solve the problem and get on with your work. You can look at what you bring back and make the necessary adjustment on the fly. Or, you could build a sensitometer and do the testing. It is up to you just how far you really want to go. Just remember, do not let the testing get in the way of your creativity!

In a nutshell: Do not spend a disproportionate amount of your time testing!

JB

Posted by JB Harlin in Darkroom, Film, Photography, The Darkroom Workshop