{"id":11909,"date":"2015-07-14T18:57:55","date_gmt":"2015-07-15T00:57:55","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/jbhphoto.com\/blog\/?page_id=11909"},"modified":"2019-09-04T21:54:14","modified_gmt":"2019-09-05T03:54:14","slug":"formulas-updated-07142015","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/www.jbhphoto.com\/blog\/formulas-updated-07142015\/","title":{"rendered":"FORMULAS -Updated 11\/18\/2017-"},"content":{"rendered":"

Over the years we have used numerous developer and other chemical formulas in the darkroom.  After years of experimentation, with a lot of trial and error, we have now come to a point where we mix near everything from raw chemicals.  There are certain advantages to mixing your own.  You know the contents of everything you use and if there is a mistake, you know who to blame!<\/strong><\/h4>\n

Mixing your own darkroom chemistry is not difficult.   You do not need to be a chemist.  If you can follow a recipe and bake a cake, you can mix your own chemistry.  Do some research and experiment, you may just be surprised with your results and with a little knowledge you can alter a mixture to suit your vision.<\/strong><\/h4>\n

Here on this page you will find the formulas that we use in the darkroom.  Keep in mind, these are the formulas we use and they suit our vision and the way we work.  If you are interested in mixing your own chemistry, here is a starting point. Should these formulas work for you, then great!  If not, maybe you will learn something.<\/strong><\/h4>\n

CAUTION: Keep in mind that these formulas contain chemicals that could be hazardous.  Practice safe handling procedures when working with and mixing chemicals.<\/strong><\/h4>\n
\n

FILM DEVELOPER<\/strong><\/h2>\n

PYROCAT HD FILM DEVELOPER<\/strong><\/h2>\n

1 LTR STOCK ‘A’<\/strong><\/h3>\n

Water (125\u00baF) \u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026..\u2026..\u2026\u2026\u2026. 750 ml<\/h4>\n

Sodium Metabisulfite \u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026. 10 g<\/h4>\n

Pyrocatechin \u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026.\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026.. 50 g<\/h4>\n

Phenidone  (*Note) \u2026\u2026.\u2026.\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026 2 g<\/h4>\n

Potassium Bromide \u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026.\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026 2 g<\/h4>\n

Water to make \u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026..\u2026.\u2026\u2026\u2026.. 1 liter (1,000 ml)<\/h4>\n

*Note:  Mix 2.0 g of Phenidone with about 5 ml of Isopropyl Alcohol and stir into an even mixture, then add to the stock solution and stir till dissolved.<\/em><\/p>\n

1 LTR STOCK ‘B’<\/strong><\/h3>\n

Water (68\u00baF)\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026. 750 ml<\/h4>\n

Potassium Carbonate\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026 750 g<\/h4>\n

Water to make\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026..\u2026\u2026\u2026.. 1 liter (1,000 ml)<\/h4>\n

NOTE:  Use Distilled Water in all stock solutions.<\/em><\/strong><\/h4>\n

We use PyroCat HD at a mixture of 2:2:100.  That is 2 parts \u2018A\u2019 plus 2 parts \u2018B\u2019 plus 100 parts distilled water. Each type of film should be tested for proper EI and developing time.<\/strong><\/h4>\n

PyroCat HD was formulated by Sandy King<\/a><\/span>.  For more information look HERE<\/a><\/span>. <\/strong><\/h4>\n

More good information here, \u201cAn Introduction to Pyro Staining Developers, With Special Attention to the Pyrocat-HD Formula<\/a><\/span>\u201d by Sandy King.
\n<\/strong><\/h4>\n

Want to learn more about pyro staining developers? We now offer an online video workshop that explores those traits that make pyro film developers unique. Follow this link to The Darkroom Workshop<\/a><\/span> for more information. <\/strong><\/strong><\/span><\/h3>\n

\"The<\/a><\/p>\n

\n

PAPER DEVELOPER<\/strong><\/h2>\n

PPPD-JBH Cold Tone Paper Developer<\/strong><\/h2>\n

SOLUTION ‘A’<\/strong><\/h3>\n

Water (125\u00baF) \u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026..\u2026..\u2026\u2026\u2026 750 ml \u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026.. 1,500 ml<\/h4>\n

Phenidone  (*NOTE)\u2026\u2026\u2026..\u2026..\u2026\u2026. 0.3 g \u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026. 0.6 g<\/h4>\n

Sodium Sulfite \u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026 43 g \u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026. 86 g<\/h4>\n

Pyrocatechol \u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026.. 10 g \u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026. 20 g<\/h4>\n

Citric Acid \u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026  5 g \u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026..\u2026 10 g<\/h4>\n

Potassium Bromide\u2026\u2026..\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026. 3.5 g \u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026.\u2026.\u2026.. 7 g<\/h4>\n

Water to make\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026..\u2026\u2026\u2026.. 1 liter \u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026.\u2026. 2 liter<\/h4>\n

*Note:  Dissolve in  5-8 ml of Isopropyl Alcohol then add to the stock solution and stir till dissolved.<\/em><\/p>\n

SOLUTION ‘B’<\/strong><\/h3>\n

Water (70-80\u00baF)\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026 750 ml \u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026.\u2026.1,500 ml<\/h4>\n

Sodium Carbonate \u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026..  50 g \u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026.. 100 g<\/h4>\n

Water to make\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026..\u2026\u2026\u2026.. 1 liter \u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026.\u2026\u2026.. 2 liter<\/h4>\n

Mix 1:1 (1 part ‘A’ with 1 part ‘B’ to use)<\/strong><\/h3>\n

This is our variation of the Pyro Plus Paper Developer (PPPD).  This developer was originally formulated and published by Donald Miller.  Our version is a cold tone developer and works well with Azo.  For more information about PPPD and its various mixtures, search the Internet.<\/strong><\/h4>\n

Also see this jbhphoto BLOG entry, \u201c<\/strong>WHAT PAPER DEVELOPER ARE YOU USING THESE DAYS?<\/a>“<\/span><\/h4>\n

 <\/p>\n

\n

PAPER DEVELOPER<\/strong><\/h2>\n

THIS IS OUR REPLACEMENT FOR ZONE VI PAPER DEVELOPER<\/strong><\/span><\/span><\/a><\/h3>\n

D-72<\/b><\/h2>\n

Water (125\u00ba F)\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026…\u2026..\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026 750ml \u2026\u2026\u2026. 1500 \u2026\u2026\u2026. 2250 \u2026\u2026…\u2026. 3000<\/h4>\n

Metol \u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026.\u2026\u2026…\u2026.\u2026\u2026..\u2026\u2026.  3 g \u2026\u2026\u2026.\u2026.. 6 g \u2026\u2026.\u2026\u2026 9 g\u2026\u2026.\u2026….. 12 g<\/h4>\n

Sodium Sulfite \u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026..\u2026\u2026\u2026.. 45 g \u2026\u2026..\u2026\u2026. 90 g \u2026\u2026.. 135 g .\u2026\u2026..\u2026 180 g<\/h4>\n

Hydroquione \u2026\u2026\u2026..\u2026\u2026.\u2026.\u2026\u2026\u2026.. 12 g \u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026.. 24 g \u2026\u2026\u2026.. 36 g \u2026\u2026….\u2026. 48 g<\/h4>\n

Sodium Carbonate \u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026..\u2026\u2026\u2026.. 80 g \u2026\u2026..\u2026. 160 g \u2026..\u2026. 240 g .\u2026\u2026…\u2026 320 g<\/h4>\n

Potassium Bromide \u2026.\u2026..\u2026….\u2026..\u2026.. 2 g \u2026\u2026\u2026.\u2026.. 4 g \u2026\u2026\u2026…. 6 g \u2026\u2026\u2026…\u2026. 8 g<\/h4>\n

Water to make \u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026..\u2026..\u2026\u2026\u2026. 1 Ltr \u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026.. 2 Ltr \u2026\u2026\u2026. 3 Ltr \u2026\u2026\u2026…. 4 Ltr<\/h4>\n

Mix 1:3   (One part Stock to three parts water.)<\/strong><\/h4>\n

NOTE:  Use Distilled Water in all stock solutions.<\/em><\/strong><\/h4>\n

This is our replacement for the traditional Zone VI Print Developer.  See this BLOG post for more information; ZONE VI; THE END<\/a><\/span><\/strong><\/h4>\n

 <\/h4>\n
\n

ACETIC ACID 28%
\n<\/strong><\/h2>\n

To make a 28% stock solution of Acetic Acid, mix 3 parts pure acid to 8 parts distilled water.<\/strong><\/h4>\n

TO MIX A TOTAL VOLUME OF 28% ACETIC ACID TO FILL A 16 oz BOTTLE<\/strong><\/h3>\n

Pure Acid …\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026… 4.5 oz<\/h4>\n

Distilled Water\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026 12 oz<\/h4>\n

Total 28% mixture \u2026\u2026\u2026 16.5 oz<\/h4>\n

NOTE: Always add acid to water.  Never add water to acid.<\/em><\/h4>\n
\n

STOP
\n<\/strong><\/h2>\n

Stop for PyroCat HD we mix 3ml of 28% acid to each 1,000ml of water<\/strong>.<\/h4>\n

Stop for printing paper we mix 40ml of 28% acid to each 1,000ml of water.<\/strong><\/h4>\n
\n

FIXER FOR FILM<\/strong><\/h2>\n

Fixer for PyroCat HD we use Kodak Rapid Fixer, film dilution<\/strong>.  Do Not add hardener (small bottle).<\/h4>\n
\n

FIXER FOR PAPER<\/strong><\/h2>\n

THIS IS OUR REPLACEMENT FOR ZONE VI PRINT & FILM FIXER<\/strong><\/a><\/span><\/span><\/h3>\n

F-24 ACID FIXER FOR PAPER<\/b><\/h2>\n

Water (100-125\u00ba F)\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026..\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026 750ml \u2026\u2026\u2026. 1500 \u2026\u2026\u2026. 3000 \u2026\u2026…\u2026. 6000<\/h4>\n

Sodium Thiosulfate \u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026.\u2026.\u2026\u2026.  240 g \u2026\u2026\u2026.. 480 g \u2026\u2026\u2026 960 g\u2026\u2026.\u2026… 1920 g
\nPentahydrate **<\/h4>\n

Sodium Sulfite \u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026..\u2026\u2026\u2026.. 10 g \u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026. 20 g \u2026\u2026\u2026.. 40 g .\u2026\u2026….\u2026 80 g<\/h4>\n

Sodium Bisulfite \u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026.\u2026.\u2026\u2026\u2026.. 25 g \u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026.. 50 g \u2026\u2026\u2026.. 100 g \u2026\u2026..\u2026. 200 g<\/h4>\n

Water to make \u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026..\u2026\u2026\u2026. 1 Ltr \u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026.. 2 Ltr \u2026\u2026\u2026. 4 Ltr \u2026\u2026\u2026…. 8 Ltr<\/h4>\n

**Sodium Thiosulfate Anhydrous     152 g                 304 g                 608 g            1216 g<\/h4>\n

*** CAUTION ****<\/b><\/h2>\n

Sodium Thiosulfate <\/b>Anhydrous<\/b><\/span>  Water 80-85<\/b>\u00b0F Never Over 90<\/b>\u00b0F<\/b><\/h4>\n

Mix in the order shown and use undiluted.  Fix paper for 4 minutes.  Wash prints in running water for 5-10 minutes before second Plain Hypo fix.  This wash is important, since this fix is acid and the Plain Hypo is alkaline.  Transferring acid from the first fix will turn the second fix cloudy with a precipitate which will render the second fix useless.  This is especially important if you plan to selenium tone.  Any acid carried over into the toner will cause stains.<\/strong><\/h4>\n
\n

PLAIN HYPO<\/b><\/h2>\n

FOR SECOND FIX AND SELENIUM TONING<\/b><\/h2>\n

Water (100-125\u00ba F)\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026..\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026 750ml \u2026\u2026\u2026. 1500 \u2026\u2026\u2026. 3000 \u2026\u2026.\u2026. 6000<\/h4>\n

Sodium Thiosulfate \u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026.\u2026.\u2026\u2026.  240 g \u2026\u2026\u2026.. 480 g \u2026\u2026\u2026 960 g\u2026\u2026\u2026.. 1920 g
\nPentahydrate **<\/h4>\n

Sodium Sulfite \u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026..\u2026\u2026\u2026.. 30 g \u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026.. 60 g \u2026\u2026\u2026. 120 g \u2026\u2026.\u2026 240 g<\/h4>\n

Water to make \u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026..\u2026\u2026\u2026.. 1 Ltr \u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026.. 2 Ltr .\u2026\u2026\u2026 4 Ltr \u2026\u2026\u2026.. 8 Ltr<\/h4>\n

**Sodium Thiosulfate Anhydrous   152 g                 304 g                 608 g            1216 g<\/h4>\n

*** CAUTION ****<\/b><\/h2>\n

Sodium Thiosulfate <\/b>Anhydrous<\/b><\/span>  Water 80-85<\/b>\u00b0F Never Over 90<\/b>\u00b0F<\/b><\/h4>\n

Plain Hypo is used as a second fixing bath.  Use undiluted for 4 minutes.  This may also be used before selenium toning since this fix is alkaline.  Fix for 4 minutes, then directly into selenium toner until desired effect is achieved.  Then place print in HCA ( see my formula below) and wash for 1 hour.<\/strong><\/h4>\n

NOTE:  If using Sodium Thiosulfate Anhydrous \u2014  To mix 1 Ltr use 152 g \u2014 To mix 2 Ltr use 304 g \u2014 To mix 4 Ltr use 608 g \u2014  To mix 8 Ltr use 1216 g<\/h4>\n
\n

SELENIUM TONING<\/b><\/h2>\n

FOR PPPD-JBH DEVELOPED PAPER<\/b><\/h2>\n

1:20 DILUTION<\/strong><\/h2>\n

 <\/h2>\n

Water (68-70\u00ba F) \u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026. 32 oz \u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026. 64 oz \u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026.\u2026\u2026. 128 oz<\/h4>\n

Kodalk * \u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026 0.125 tsp (1\/8) \u2026\u2026… 0.50 tsp (1\/2) \u2026\u2026\u2026…. 1.00 tsp (1)<\/h4>\n

Selenium Toner\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026.. 1.50 oz \u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026.. 3.00 oz \u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026…\u2026\u2026 6.00 oz<\/h4>\n

Toning is a very subjective practice and what works for one may not be acceptable to another.  Selenium toner, and its effect on the finished print, is directly proportional to the strength of the toning solution and time.  Also, the type of paper, and even the developer used, can change how the toner interacts with the finished image.<\/strong><\/h4>\n

You need to experiment with what works for you.  We have used dilutions from 1:20 to 1:80, depending on the results.  Above is our current mixture which is 1:20.  That is 1 part Kodak Rapid Selenium Toner to 20 parts water.   The amount of Kodalk remains constant and is determined by the volume of water.  You only vary the amount of toner stock solution.<\/strong><\/h4>\n

*NOTE:  Kodalk Balanced Alkali is Sodium Metaborate<\/strong><\/h4>\n

 PROCEDURE<\/strong><\/h4>\n

1.  Water in tray 5 min. (only if prints are dry)<\/strong><\/h4>\n

2.  Pure Hypo  3-4 min.  (occasional agitation)<\/strong><\/h4>\n

3.  Kodak Rapid Selenium Toner diluted 1:20 to 1:80  2 to 6 min. (continuous agitation at 70-85\u00b0F)<\/strong><\/h4>\n

4.  Hypo Clearing Agent  3-4 min. (occasional agitation)<\/strong><\/h4>\n

5.  Wash<\/strong><\/h4>\n
\n

HYPO CLEARING AGENT<\/strong><\/h2>\n

JBH HYPO CLEARING AGENT<\/strong><\/h2>\n

Water (125\u00ba F)\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026.\u2026\u2026..\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026 750ml \u2026\u2026\u2026.. 1500 \u2026\u2026.\u2026. 2250 \u2026\u2026.\u2026. 3000<\/h4>\n

Sodium Sulfite \u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026..\u2026\u2026\u2026… 200 g \u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026 400 g \u2026..\u2026.. 600 g \u2026\u2026\u2026. 800 g<\/h4>\n

Sodium Bisulfite \u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026.. 1 g \u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026. 2 g \u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026. 3 g \u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026.. 4 g<\/h4>\n

EDTA*\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026. 10 g \u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026.. 20 g \u2026\u2026\u2026.. 30 g \u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026 40 g<\/h4>\n

Water to make \u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026..\u2026\u2026\u2026.. 1 Ltr \u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026.. 2 Ltr \u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026 3 Ltr \u2026\u2026\u2026.. 4 Ltr<\/h4>\n

Dilute 1:9 for use<\/strong><\/h2>\n

* EDTA is added to prevent hard water precipitant from forming during use and may be left out if not needed.<\/h4>\n

This is the HCA formula we have used for years.  We do not use HCA with film, so this is used for fiber paper.  Mix stock solution 1:9, that is one part stock to nine parts water.  Shuffle paper in a tray of working solution for 3-4 minutes, then wash for one hour.  NOTE:  Test your washer, your wash time may be different.<\/strong><\/h4>\n
\n

MEASURE<\/strong><\/h2>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\n

 NOTES<\/strong><\/h2>\n